Pn Racing Tires Questions?

[Zippy]

Can Any one help me with this.. P/N Racing dnano tires are the numbers like a shore rating? what do the numbers mean?

and anyone have any suggestions racing on carpet with a ferrari 360 modena. i have the kyosho ball diff, kyosho damper plate, full bearing kit, and spring kit
Track rules say no motor upgrades allowed..
i have all the P/n racing tires and a set of aluminum rims 18f and 19r ..

any tips or tricks would be helpful.. everything i read online is for foam style tracks?

Thanks Again

Zippy

[mrnanotrax]

all R/C tires of all brands use numbers to indicate 'shore' or 'compound'. this is a way to tell the softness of the tire with softer tires giving more grip but faster wear. on carpet, i'd recommend X-Power's foam racing wheels or their Horizontal Groove tires, both i've heard do well (can't say personally as i've never raced on carpet). check out some of the X-Power optional parts, they should give you an edge if you're the only one using them

[BeAi79]

HI, if you take foam or not... its not a wide world... but if all drives with foam tires... you need also... that makes 0.2 - 0.5sec at a round... not much but a little more gripp...

take the softest ones... i drive all cars with the softest tires... and after this standart starting setup i deside who i take the steering angle and after this setupstep i reduse the maximum speed, if i need a little more stable car...

the main important parts on all dnanos are the Damping System and the differential... i use most the kyosho diff. U have to drill it with a dremel... it must work that fine, that you havent got any ball roll feeling until you turn it by the hand...

if this two setups works... you will have a real great car... nutral and fast... if you use foam or p/n tires doesent mater that much... (does i think, its more the driving skill, that you bring to the top drivers...)

[bcc1955]

hello BeAi79,

can u explain "i use most the kyosho diff. U have to drill it with a dremel... it must work that fine"?

are u drilling out the spur gear holes for the diff balls?

thanks, brian

[BeAi79]

smile... you dont have to drill anything out... only the balls must set themselves in the parts of the differential...

in the car, the differential work very slow and must work without any fine blockating feeling... its difficult to explaine... may be i have to produce a youtube video...

you can test the diff easy... set it in a car... and hold one of the two rear weels... fix it that its standing still... now turn on the engine... and hear how high the engine turns... if it dont turn, you have to dremel the diff...

after a dremel session, you starting with the test... fixing one weel and turn on the engine... now do this on bougth weels... and hear about the engine, how high it turns... the diff works perfect if you arrived a exact same engine turn on bouthy weels... its important that the diff works symetric...

i work with all kyosho ones on the standart setting on the box... with the atomic ones, you have to set the spring force as low as possible... that the differential can work very fine...

than you have a very very nice handling car... you need two parts... a nice diff and a nice damping system... these are the two most important factors...

any questions???

[Falconano]

Personally, I can never get the differential to have a symmetrical action, even after breaking in with a drill.
I think this is due to the asymmetrical construction and the fact that there is more mass on one side.
I will try to 'drill' a bit more maybe.. This always bothered me as on low grip surface you really feel the differential asymmetrical action as on one side the car tends to understeer, on the other oversteer. This is only noticeable on low grip so most driver dont have to worry...

[BeAi79]

This asymetric effect is exactly the problem that has to be fixed... I usually drill the diffs with grease in it... after a drill session roundabout 10 or 15min, on a slow turn, dont overhead them...

i clean the hole diff and set it with little oil on the balls... most of the kyosho ones work than like a symetric diff...

the build construktion have also a factor, thats true... but with ballbearings its near below zero...

i had tried also on the stock differentials... on this ones i had to shape the plastic bearings little out... than works the stock ones also better...

the atomic ones works perfect and smoth from beginning... but the Weel holding seat on the diffweal arent that good as the one from kyosho... so i desidet to use the kyosho ones... the oldes one is now near below 3 years old.. and it s always the same... with ceramic balls in it... but still the same...

[bcc1955]

BeAi79,

I see, in English parlance you are "breaking in" the diff by running it in with a Dremel like tool. I am running the Kyosho plates and the X-Power ceramic balls. I tend to be a Kyosho guy as in my experience have the best quality, therefore I am trusting that the Kyosho plates are a harder steel than the competition. I have found this to be true in Mini-Z land (particularly the R246 plates) but I have not tested the Dnano stuff. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the X-Power ceramic diff balls are actually super precise in their diameter as measured by a high quality micrometer. At any rate I prefer to do my "break in" on the track under the exact conditions it will be used. No Dremel needed

[Falconano]

I only had good luck with kyosho diff.
I own an xpower ceramic one which i can't get to run smooth, loose spring slips and as soon as I tighten a bit goes too locked. Maybe a bad spring. Also the diff seems to make the car vibrate, I tried everything and log sessions of breaking in with no luck. Maybe ILl try to transplant the ceramic balls in the kyosho one.
Even my 3 kyosho diff, all broken in equally and set up the same way, one is a lot smoother than the others. I guess at this micro scale any imperfection counts and there are some differentials born smoother than others!

[bcc1955]

Yeah, diffs are what separate the men from the boys. I spent a massive amount of time getting my Mini-z diff "right", and still one of the 2 I have is better for some reason that is difficult for me to measure. I know someone who goes through a large number of diff balls making extensive measurements to produce a killer matched set. But that is the sort of attention to detail one may need to produce great results.